1: CHARMING BEAUTY

FOTOS: SPACE MATTERS / UNKNOWN SOURCE

COCONUTS

FOTOS: HUSSEIN CHALAYAN "PASATIEMPO" S/S 16 (VOGUE)

POEMA: GEORGE BERNARD SHAW 

"Twenty coco nuts all in a row,
Painted with faces of people that I know.
A Politician right at the back,
He is no good; I would give him the sack.
Then the woman from over the way,
She is loud mouthed, with plenty to say.
A Teacher from long road school,
He is always calling some-one a fool.
Then the Policeman that grins as he books my car,
now that is a man that will go very far.
The hypocritical Vicar, Him a Godly man,
making a mess of the good Lord's plan.
The Dictators some old some new,
Making weird plans for me and you.
I do not like the coconuts or their faces;
I will blot them out to leave no traces.
In place of them, I will put myself;
See if you can knock me off of that shelf "

George Bernard Shaw 

STILL ... IRVING PENN

 FOTOS: IRVING PENN (UNKNOWN SOURCES &  VOGUE)

DEMNA GVASALIA ...

...LA DECONSTRUCCIÓN Y EL LUJO DE LA CALLE  SE APODERARAN DE BALENCIAGA  EN FEBRERO CON  RTW WOMENSWEAR, OTOÑO-INVIERNO 2016-17.

FOTOS: VETEMENTS  & DAZED DIGITAL

 

SOUL SENSATIONS / ASTRID ANDERSEN INTERVIEW

FOTOS: ASTRID ANDERSEN STUDIO 

Los recesos son buenos, respiro y miro hacia atrás , pues han ocurrido tantas cosas a mi alrededor que lo hacen constatar. 

Gracias a mi trabajo y al apoyo de mucha gente - Karii Arreola , Pedro Ponce , María Videl , Vera Félix y sobre todo Alfredo Mejía - se pudo hacer realidad un sueño que durante más de año y medio me otorgo la felicidad de ver publicadas mis notas en Nylon y mejor aun en su versión masculina fue una bendición que me enseñó lo arduo y gratificante que es trabajar para la industria. Obsequiándome satisfacciones e incontables conocimientos.

Hace ya bastante tiempo que tenía ganas de regresar a escribir a mi blog que lleva por nombre simple-ss. Intencionalmente o no desde el principio quise dejar aquellas dos letras juntas sin dotarlas de ningún significado hasta este momento en que decidí dárselo con las palabras soul y sensations.

Porque mis percepciones sobre la moda van más allá de algo superficial y en cierta manera a esta industria también le gusta la sensiblería. Ya que dos veces al año - incluidas crucero y haute couture- los diseñadores nos hacen soñar muy alto y en las revistas las editoriales de moda son un refuerzo mensual a nuestros gigantescos sueños.

Como un espía he seguido durante este año y medio las colecciones llevándome sorpresas y confusiones aunque en su mayoría han sido gratas.

Por ejemplo el retorno de Galliano a Margiela, la incursión como líder de la casa Dior a Raf Simons y más extravagante aun Alexander Wang para Balenciaga  quien hace poco tuvo su último desfile en una orgánica presentación, de las que estaré hablándoles más adelante.

He decidido incursionar en otras áreas que antes me han intrigado ,como es el mundo de las mujeres y su relación de amor - o en casos extremos de odio- con la moda. Espero a mis lectoras y lectores les agrade e ir penetrando en el ingenio de hombres y mujeres que tratan de hacernos vibrar con sus ideologías.

Sé que pronto aparecerán nuevas oportunidades para  seguir publicando esto que amo y que hago con mucho entusiasmo.

En este emocionante regreso, he decidido publicar una entrevista en su versión integra sin traducir al español-originalmente para Nylon Guys MX en el mes de septiembre del 2014-a la diseñadora Astrid Andersen quien por medio de su RP Ella Dror -a quien doy las gracias - le hizo llegar estas preguntas. 

Disfruten de este su espacio en su versión mejorada.

Luis C. Baeza

___________________INTERVIEW___________________ 

What are the features that you have in spring 13?

SS/13 is a mix of transparrent fabrics, lace, jerseys, mesh and mink. For that season I wanted to focus on my core product which is the basketball tank and basketball shorts and make them into icons of the collection. I wanted to add very fragile universe mixed with the gym philosophy.   

Have you thought in work with someone else?

I work closely with Elgar Johnson, as my stylist and casting director and really overall go to guy. We bounce ideas of each other to create new statements. 

Do you have a favorite basketball team?

I don't have a team I'm ruling for, it changes for me. Like last year I went to Miami and thought the Miami Heat were amazing! The year before that I had a real obsession with Vlade Divac and of course was into the Lakers, but more from the late 80's. So I don't aproach it so much as a sport probably, for me it's an inspiration source.  

What other influenced to create the collection?

SS13 was about exploring  the community of young men create at the gym. Somehow has replaced the church today.  

Because your gym moved to a place more religious , what contains details

of religion in the collection?

Well its very suttle, I never like to overreference. Like the print is a stainglass mosaic of the basketball player. The lace has a very Biblical reference and the bare feet at the show was also a nod to prayer and going to church. Lastly we had an almost burka style coat as an islamic reference. 

What is the most exciting thing that you feel about your spring 13 collection?

 My favourite part is always the casting of the models and having them lined up in the collection, this is really where the clothes come to life ,and becomes a story of its own rather than my reference points. 

What are the men that you have in mind to make your designs?

I want them to feel powerful and look confident, but also reveal a sensitive side. 

Which is the soundtrack of Astrid Andersen boy?

Well for SS13 we actually used Faithless "God is a DJ". There's a difference between my soundtrack and the boy/man wearing my clothes. I like to think he laughs a bit at my music, but cant help but love it as well, because we also find common ground in old school Wu Tang and Pink Floyd. 

Even though the female details aren’t visible you can find lots of them in your collection  like mesh, lace or fur. Do you think that is it allowed using these kinds of female detail in menswear?

I think it's interesting to mix these references, and also a natural progression in fashion as men become more in focus and fashionable they need to push bounderies like women have done for a long time. 

I dont think it's even relevant to talk about what is allowed and not anymore.Is more about what works and what doesn't. 

MENSPIRATION #25

         FOTOS: Soviet soldier (unkown photographer),guy smoking unkown photographer.